An institutional approach to the evolution of markets: the role of independent fashion entrepreneurs

Abstract

Drawing on institutional approaches, this work investigates the role of institutional entrepreneurs in market dynamics. Through the context of independent entrepreneurs in the fashion market, a qualitative research inspired on ethnographic approach was conducted, relying on several observations, interviews, netnography, and an immersive experience in the context. This work’s findings imply that, motivated by a sense of social and environmental responsibility that emerged in the past years due to a set of social movements, independent fashion entrepreneurs, as newcomers in the market, engage in institutional entrepreneurship as they propagate an emerging logic in the organizational field, referred to as slow logic. Facing a confrontation of logics in the market, independent fashion entrepreneurs demonstrate to engage in initiatives, coherent to their business principles, that helps them to reach both legitimacy and profitability goals. These initiatives, such as independent brands collectives, coworkings, collaborative stores and independent fairs, are observed to play a catalyst role in the market evolution.